Nylon stocking sizes are crucially important.  It is far too easy to buy pin up 1950s fashion nylons only to find you have bought the wrong size.  Making all the right choices before you purchase will ensure you are not disappointed afterwards.  The first thing you really need to know is that stocking nylon is not the same as the nylon you would find on other garments, like panties or a slip.  Stocking nylon is 100% pure nylon in true vintage stockings and has no stretch properties whatsoever and, as such, can be quite uncomfortable if you get the size wrong.  

If you are intending to buy authentic vintage nylon stockings it is important to know more about the term ‘Fully Fashioned’ (FF) and what that actually means.  Here are some fully fashioned facts:

• A lot of people think that ‘Fully Fashioned’ just refers to the seam that is visible at the back of each leg.  It actually doesn’t.  Having a seam on your stockings is just where the flat-knit ‘fully fashioned’ nylon fabric was joined at the back.  To be truly authentic, that seam must be a join – some seams are just sewn-in ‘fake’ mock seams.  So, to think that the only stockings that can be called ‘fully fashioned’ are those with a seam and contrasting heel is a myth.  Seamless stockings can be fully fashioned too.

• ‘Fully Fashioned’ actually refers to the natural shape of the leg.  Let me explain.  Because true, authentic pure nylon stockings have no stretch in them at all, manufacturers had to make them in the exact shape of the leg so that they fit snugly and didn’t ‘sag’ in places.  They were perfectly ‘fashioned‘ to the shape of the leg so that they fit neatly around all parts of the leg.  They had to, remember.  If they didn’t, the nylon fabric in some areas would sag while in others they would be too tight.  The stocking should fit neatly around the whole of your leg without sagging or creasing, although a subtle tiny ripple of looseness at the arch of the foot is actually considered fashionably chic in some quarters.

• With Fully Fashioned (FF) nylon stockings, leg length is actually more important than foot size when it comes to comfort while wearing.  One of the things you must do first of all is to know your leg length because good quality nylon stockings come in different leg lengths, eg: size 10 short; size 10 medium; size 10 long, etc.

• The alternative to Fully Fashioned seamed stockings are seamless ‘Regular’ stockings that are  knitted over cone-shaped moulds.  As I said, these don’t have seams because they don’t need seams as they are knitted as a big conical ‘tube’ – although a manufacturer could add a ‘mock’ seam just for effect.  This method of manufacture is slightly more forgiving when it comes to sizing, especially since in later years they started adding stretchy Lycra to the nylon mix.  Because these circular spun stockings have a kind of ‘one shape fits all’ idea they will never fit and look as good as vintage fully fashioned nylons.  Watch out for that, as they are not really truly authentic nylons in the vintage sense.

Are Nylon Stockings Fun and Comfortable to Wear? 

Yes, nylon stockings can be both fun and comfortable to wear. Their sleek look goes well with any outfit, while their soft nylon fabric helps keep you feeling comfortable throughout the day.  Yes, nylon stockings can be both fun and comfortable to wear. Their sleek look goes well with any outfit, while their soft fabric helps keep you feeling comfortable throughout the day. With sheer, lightweight designs and a range of fashionable colors, there’s no denying that nylon stockings are a great wardrobe addition. Nylon stockings have been a fashion staple for decades, as they not only offer a sleek and stylish look, but are also fun and comfortable to wear.  Nylon stockings are easy to care for, maintain their color over time, and make the perfect addition to any outfit! 

The Denier scale is an important factor for those wanting stockings. It’s a French term used to measure the thickness of the thread, and refers to one gram for every nine thousand metres. Sheer stockings or tights have a denier count of 7, which is so light that it almost disappears on the leg. For those after more durability, stockings over 20-denier are opaque; whereas those between 10-20 are still transparent whilst being more resistant. For a balance between wearability and sexiness, 15-denier is the most popular option.

Seamed or Seamless Stockings – What’s Best?  The Pros and Cons of Seamed vs. Seamless Stockings.

Whether you choose seamed or seamless stockings depends heavily on personal preference. Seamed stockings are often thought to be of higher quality and more durable, while seamless stockings tend to fit better and provide a smoother look under clothing. Ultimately, it comes down to individual choice.  Seamed stockings offer a more traditional, vintage look, but seamless stockings are becoming increasingly popular for their sleek and modern look. The choice between the two ultimately comes down to personal preference, as both kinds of stockings can provide comfort and style. 

How to buy a vintage slip.

Polish bras are a big thing in the bra fitting community, quite literally in some cases! Polish lingerie often goes up to sizes that we can’t even imagine seeing on the shelves in other locations around the world. Comexim is one of those companies, and based on the reviews on the blog, you’d understand if I told you that they were one of my favourites. They were possibly some of my most worn bras back when I fit around a 65J (30G-ish, read on for more info!). These are the ones I reviewed on the blog, but there were even more in my wardrobe!

Polish bras are well known and loved for their deeper cups and narrower wires than most UK or US bra brands, which is why they’re such a favourite in the bra fitting community – generally people who have been fitted into a better size for them tend to find that they were wearing a bra size that was too wide and shallow for them, something that disguises some bra fit issues.

I’ve had this bra for several years, in fact, I bought it in 2018 – before I was married and had kids! It explains why it’s in such good condition – it barely managed a year in my wardrobe before I packed it away while pregnant with Emmy. While the cups have some stretch, the longline was uncomfortable on the bump pretty quickly for me. It was packed away in my in-laws’ attic for, well, close to 5 years I suppose!

But not to fear, Comexim still have this bra, the Comexim Sugar Plum Bra on their website!

Appearance & Shape

This bra is very distinctive in appearance with its gorgeous longline style and lace high apex cups. The best way I can describe it is that it doesn’t look like a full bust bra, if that makes sense! Usually with full bust bras, there’s a lot of “scaffolding”, the cups and the gore are higher, there’s extra lining and all that jazz. But this bra looks a lot lighter and daintier, something I really enjoy. You could be forgiven for thinking that it was a bralette!

I love that the longline band is actually a longline. That sounds weird, but I’ve tried a few longlines in fuller bust ranges before where it’s just a slightly wider band – I guess when your boobs take up more of your upper body, they don’t want to make even more of it disappear under the band! I’ve always loved the look of a longline (look how many times I’ve blogged about and reviewed them!), so I was so happy to find this lacy one.

Speaking of the lace, look how pretty it is! It’s quite delicate foliage lace pattern set on a sheer purple mesh. And not only does the lace cover the cups, it also extends onto the band and around the back too! So many bras have powernet in the band instead of letting the lace continue, which I understand will work for better structure and support, but just doesn’t have the same aesthetic.

The purple and black combo on the straps at the back is a winner for me right now. I recently got “diagnosed” as a Winter (Jewel Winter specifically) colour season, and a royal purple is in my colour palette, along with black. I’ve been trying to find lingerie that fits my colour season, just to add a bit more interest to my (now decimated!) lingerie wardrobe, and was happy to find this one that already fits! It’s maybe a little on the warmer side of purple, but I like that it’s bright and clear!

Size, Fit & Shape

I chose this bra in a 65J, which was, at least in 2018, my standard Comexim size. At the time, I would have said that 65J equates to something between a 30G and 28GG, as I often found the bands plenty firm enough. I think this bra got less wear than the others around that time though as I find this band to be a lot looser. As I said, it doesn’t have the strong powernet band so has more stretch on the lace than you’d usually get from a Comexim bra. I’d say the band is closer to a 32.

In terms of cup size, I always loved that this bra had some flexibility. When I pulled it out of the attic last year, I was just finishing feeding Archie so didn’t need to wear nursing bras any more, but my bra size was still a lot bigger than it used to be – I was consistently wearing 32Hs. This bra was one of very few that made the cut to come out of the attic as the cups had enough stretch to cover me up and also to be pulled out the way for an emergency daytime feed, which were usually few and far between at this point. It wasn’t a great fit though as I found I would spill out the centre pretty quickly, so at that time, I would only wear it if I was completely sick of nursing bras!

Now I’m sitting somewhere around a 32G/GG (maybe a 30 band, I’m waiting on some new bras to try to see!), and the bra is once again, a lovely fit! It’s probably not perfect as I think the cups are a teensy bit small still, but the plus side of that is that I have a little more push up effect in it. They’re not the most supportive of cups, but definitely more so than a standard bralette with no wires. It means it’s lovely and comfy for daily wear.

The wires are narrower than most UK brands, which is something I’m a bit nervous about now with Polish lingerie as I think my root is wider than it used to be – it’s something I think I’ll have to experiment with over the coming months. It does have quite a deep plunging shape for a fuller bust bra, which is really nice but isn’t the perfect shape for me any more sadly – my tissue is quite a bit softer which means it tries to migrate out of the cups more nowadays! Again, this is something I’m still figuring out – it’s almost like starting the bra fitting journey out all over again!

The most important thing about this bra for me though is that it’s very comfortable! The longline is the perfect balance between soft and stretchy enough not to try and flip up on my slightly flared ribcage, but firm enough to give some support. And I also LOVE the high apex cups on it – there’s just something so pretty about this style!

As I mentioned, this bra is still available to buy at Comexim, but sadly only in a 70H, so if you’re interested and that’s your size, grab it now! There are others similar though, so I think it might soon be time for another Comexim order for me…

Based in Montreal, Canada, Montelle Intimates has been designing and manufacturing women’s intimate apparel since 1994. Montelle specializes in foundations and is dedicated to creating collections that do not compromise fashion for comfort.

With its own production facilities in the Philippines, Montelle is able to fully control its quality as well as ensure that everything produced is done so under strict social compliance standards.

The Essentials Collection, a selection of basic, core foundation pieces, is available throughout the year. A signature clean and classic look defines these coordinated fashion collections, including bras ranging in sizes 28-42 (28 being our new band size in select styles) and cup sizes from A to H. Two fashion collections are also introduced annually in Spring and Fall featuring the latest seasonal colors and styles.

Montelle Intimates is currently available in lingerie boutiques and select retailers across North America, Central America, Europe and the UK.

By ESTELLE PULESTON

Created by Heather St John and her husband, Christopher, South Carolina-based The Balanced Bra Company is a lingerie brand unlike any other, dedicated to addressing a specific and underserved need: stylish bras for asymmetrical breasts.

After struggling for a long time to find a bra that fit, Heather enlisted the help of a professional bra fitter who revealed that she had uneven cup sizes. Still, knowing the reason didn’t make it any easier to find a solution for it. As she recalls:

“My search for a well-fitting bra often ended in frustration, leaving me to simply ‘deal with it.’  As I started looking for possible options, most of what I found felt medical or bulky and was actually more uncomfortable than if I was using a basic bra.”

Many more years of poorly-fitting bras went by, until Heather and her husband decided time was long overdue to do something about it. Their idea? Bras made in two parts, detachable at both the front and back, which could be purchased with the same band measurement but a different cup size on either side.

Armed with plenty of determination but no prior lingerie design experience, they began by cutting up bras and sewing different sizes together to test out their concept. “Let’s just say, this did not go very well,” says Heather. Local seamstresses and various factories led to similarly disappointing results, but they didn’t give up. Eventually, their search led them to Jessica Owusu-Afriyie, founder of Suite Creative Studio, who was finally able to help to bring their vision to life in a well-crafted, real-world-wearable way.

The Morgan bra is a smooth t-shirt design with ultra-light spacer cups, available in 32-38 A-DD cups. Also designed for the same size range is the Rachel bra, a high-apex plunge with similar spacer cups that are overlaid with subtly-detailed lace. And rounding out the collection is the Lily bra, another high-apex plunge but this time opaque and unpadded, and available in a wider US 32-40 A-G size range. Each option comes in three or four color choices, and there are two coordinating underwear options.

Most of The Balanced Bra Company’s customers have a difference of one cup size. Heather herself falls within this range, and found it to be more than enough asymmetry to cause significant fit issues, discomfort and self-consciousness in conventional bras.

The company’s sales show that a two cup difference is also not uncommon. But whether you have a one cup size difference or a five cup size difference, The Balanced Bra Company’s system allows you to shop for a bra ‘off the rack’ that feels like it was custom-made for your body.

And of course, you can also shop these bras with no cup size difference at all – you’d just pick the same cup size for both sides. While it may not be their primary target audience, I think they’re also a great option for anyone who likes a front-fastening bra that also has the band-length adjustability of a classic hook-and-eye back closure.

Next on Heather’s agenda is developing a wirefree bra for the collection, both for post-mastectomy wear and for those who simply prefer to go wireless. Expanding the size and color range is also a top priority. “We want to make sure we’re truly inclusive,” says Heather, “We believe everyone deserves to feel confident in their body without having to compromise comfort or style.”

The Balanced Bra Company’s bras are all priced at $64, and bottoms at $18.

Contact information:

Website:

Instagram: @thebalancedbraco

Email: info@thebalancedbraco.com

See More Featured Designers in The Gallery on Lingerie Briefs

By Dana Donofree, owner of AnaOno

Bra fitters play a crucial role in helping individuals feel comfortable, confident, and supported in their intimate apparel. For those who have undergone chest or breast surgeries, finding the right bra isn’t just about fit—it’s about understanding their bodies, their choices, and their needs. The terminology behind breast and chest surgeries can often feel overwhelming, but as a bra fitter, having a foundational understanding allows you to better serve your customers with empathy and expertise.

Why People Choose Chest or Breast Surgery

People undergo breast or chest surgeries for various reasons—some are medically necessary, some are medically driven, and others are personal choices. These surgeries can be reconstructive, aesthetic, or gender-affirming, and each individual has unique motivations for their decision. As a fitter, recognizing these different journeys ensures that you can guide your customer toward the best options for their post-surgical comfort and lifestyle.

Understanding Different Surgical Procedures

Reconstructive Breast Surgeries

For those who have faced a breast cancer diagnosis or other medical conditions requiring mastectomy, reconstructive options vary, and not all involve implants.

• Implant Reconstruction: Uses silicone or saline implants to restore breast shape after mastectomy. Customers may experience changes in sensation or asymmetry, and comfort-focused, wire-free bras are often ideal.
• Flap Reconstruction (Autologous Tissue Reconstruction): Uses the patient’s own tissue from areas like the abdomen (DIEP, TRAM), back (Latissimus Dorsi), or thighs (PAP, TUG) to recreate the breast shape. These procedures often leave scars in multiple areas, and bras with soft, smooth linings can help minimize irritation.
• Goldilocks Procedure: A lesser-known option where remaining breast tissue is used to create a natural mound without implants. This option can leave different contours than traditional reconstruction, so finding the right cup shape is key.
• Fat Grafting: Fat is transferred from another part of the body to help enhance volume, symmetry, or smooth out irregularities. Soft, adaptable bras are beneficial for those undergoing multiple fat grafting sessions.

Aesthetic & Cosmetic Breast Surgeries

Not all breast surgeries are cancer-related. Some individuals choose aesthetic procedures to address natural asymmetry, volume loss, or personal preference.

• Breast Augmentation (Implants): Enhances size and shape with silicone or saline implants. Supportive bras with gentle compression help maintain shape and reduce movement post-surgery.
• Breast Reduction (Reduction Mammoplasty): Reduces breast size to alleviate discomfort or for aesthetic reasons. Customers may seek structured, supportive bras to accommodate changes in breast weight and positioning.
• Mastopexy (Breast Lift): Lifts and reshapes the breast, often paired with augmentation or reduction. Bras with molded cups or side support can help maintain the new breast shape.
• Aesthetic Flat Closure: A choice for those who opt out of breast reconstruction post-mastectomy, creating a smooth, contoured chest. Flat-fit bras, soft camis, or pocketed bras (for optional breast forms) are great options.

Gender-Affirming & Chest Surgeries

For individuals undergoing gender-affirming procedures, finding gender-appropriate, affirming undergarments is essential.

• Top Surgery (Masculinizing Mastectomy): Removes breast tissue to create a flatter, more masculine chest. Post-surgical compression binders are commonly used initially, transitioning to soft, wire-free bras or compression-free garments for long-term comfort.
• Breast Augmentation (Feminizing Surgery): For transgender women or non-binary individuals seeking breast implants. Post-surgical bras with light compression and soft fabric can support healing and enhance comfort.

Helping Customers Find the Right Fit

Understanding these procedures allows bra fitters to meet customers with knowledge and compassion. Here’s how to provide the best experience:

• Ask Open-Ended Questions: Instead of assuming, ask, “What kind of support or style feels best for you?”
• Know Your Styles: Offer wire-free, pocketed, compression, or adaptive options to meet varying needs.
• Consider Scar Placement & Sensitivity: Reconstructed, augmented, or flat closures all have unique considerations for band placement, fabric softness, and adjustability.
• Respect Personal Preferences: Some customers may want bras that reflect their pre-surgery style, while others may seek entirely new designs.

As bra fitters, you are more than just experts in size and fit—you are a source of support for individuals navigating their post-surgery journey. By understanding the diverse landscape of breast and chest surgeries, you can provide every customer with the dignity, confidence, and comfort they deserve. Whether they have implants, choose to go flat, or have undergone gender-affirming surgery, your knowledge and empathy make all the difference in their lingerie experience.

Read More Articles About Breast Health in Dana Donofree’s Column on Lingerie Briefs

By ESTELLE PULESTON

It’s May, it’s warm and sunny outside, and my mind is turning to potential destinations for a summer getaway – and the swimwear I could be rocking while I’m there of course!

One option I certainly wouldn’t mind having in my suitcase is NAIA Beach, a British brand that was launched in 2021 by TV personality Tess Daley and her long-time friend, Gayle Lawton. Both lovers of fashion and travel, it was on joint trip to St Tropez that they first had the idea to design a collection together, after a shopping excursion saw them struggle to find styles with just the right amount of coverage: not too skimpy, but not too frumpy either.

With NAIA Beach, their mission is to inspire confidence in every woman who wears their designs. Going for a ‘subtle glamour’ kind of vibe, their creations offer timeless and ageless shapes, golden hardware accents on every piece for an elevated feel, and a strong emphasis on delivering a flattering fit.

Both founders are experienced models, but it’s Gayle in particular who has worked extensively as a fit model for other swim and resort wear brands, through which she absorbed a very a technical understanding of what makes a swimsuit fit well. All new NAIA Beach designs are fit-tested and tweaked at least five times unless both women are satisfied they’ve achieved the perfect pattern, one that will make the wearer feel great the second she puts it on.

NAIA Beach swimsuits and bikinis all feature hidden support, but they’ve gone even further than that to create their own Subtle Sculpt® fabric too. Used for selected one-pieces, it’s engineered to provide a very comfortable smoothing effect that feels like a second skin rather than being overly tight and restrictive. Because you don’t want to feel like you’re wearing shapewear when you’re trying to chill by the pool!

One of the brand’s top sellers is the Selene swimsuit, a Subtle Sculpt® design with a very unique neckline that looks like a halter from the front, yet still incorporates wide-strapped support at the back. Other designs incorporate details such as removable straps, adjustable knots, customizable neckline ties, or functional zips that allow you to choose whether or not to flaunt some cleavage, so you always get exactly the look and fit that you’re after.

A personal favorite of mine from a design standpoint is the Raquel swimsuit, part of NAIA Beach’s sustainable collection which uses 73% recycled nylon, obtained from post-consumer plastic and worn-out fishing nets. Dripping in gold details at the front and with a striking open back that’s adorned with a decorative gold ring where you’d usually find some kind of fastening, it definitely makes a statement!

There’s also a coordinating bikini set called Phoebe. Named after one of Daley’s daughters whose input helped to shape the design of the Raquel one-piece – which went on to become another bestseller – this too weaves together large gold rings with gold-colored fabric strapping in a way that’s very ‘ancient Grecian luxe’ in SS25’s new white colorway.

The NAIA Beach range also includes an array of versatile, beach-to-bar cover-ups in coordinating prints or classic beach favorites such as crochet. For a slightly smarter though still very relaxed look, I adore the Martinique shirt and shorts set, crafted from ultra-fine cotton with a beautiful sheen and finished with signature touches of gold for added glamour.

Despite launching during a global pandemic and resulting travel ban – not exactly ideal for a swimwear brand – these stylish, thoughtfully-fitted designs were well-received right from the start, and last year the design duo even won Best New Brand at the Drapers Independents Awards.

NAIA Beach is available in US sizes 2-14. Bikini separates run from $70 to $125, while one-piece swimsuits and cover-ups will set you back between $100 and $255.

Contact information:

Website:

Instagram: @naia_beach

Email: contact@naiabeach.com